Day 13. (October 23, 1998). Rest/acclimatization day at Pangpema.
Day 14. Ditto. I climbed to about 5800m behind Pangpema to get a view of Pathibhara.
The north face of Kangchenjunga 8586m, from above Pangpema.
Two peaks north of Kangchengjunga: Twins (Givigela) I, 7004m, Twins (Givigela) II 7350m.
The south-west ridge of Pathibhara, and its unclimbed SW peak (c6800m)
View of Nepal Peak 7168m, Twins (Givigela Chuli) from near Pangpema.
Day 15. Ang Dorje Sherpa and I go to Advanced Base Camp --- about 5300m beside Ginsang Gl.
Day 16. Cross glacier and attempt to climb directly to basin below Pathibhara (between W and SW ridges). Almost wiped out by stone fall. Recce safer routes. Return to Advanced Base Camp.
Day 17. Carry load up glacier and to camp site in basin below Pathibhara.
Day 18. Occupy Camp 1 (c5600m) in basin below Pathibhara.
Day 19. Attempt to carry loads to bottom of snow on west ridge of Pathibhara (c6300m) --- we planned to reach the summit in a long day from a high camp at 6300m. Very high winds force us to dump loads below snow (c6200). We return to Camp 1.
Day 20. Attempt to move camp to bottom of snow (c6300). Winds worse. Fail in attempt to pitch tent at 6100m. Succeed in more sheltered spot (c5800m).
The ridge on left is the unclimbed west ridge of Pathibhara. The difficulties are largely concentrated in the last 500 (vertical) metres, which appears to be a sharp rock ridge, plastered with snow, and with at least one overhang. The traverse from the top of the steep section to the summit, along a corniced ridge may also present difficulties.
Snow blowing from the summit of Kangchenjunga during the wind storm --- it was probably in the jet stream at the time.
Day 21. Winds still bad in morning. My estimate about 130kph/80mph, since we were unable to move during the strongest gusts. Since we had only a few more days of food, and expected the winds to continue for several more days, we abandoned the climb. Ang Dorje retrieved our gear from the dump at 6100m, and we made it back to Pangpema before dark, carrying very heavy loads.
Day 22. Pangpema (just us and the wild sheep).
Day 23. Pangpema --- one of the world's most beautiful places.
Copyright 1998 J.S.Milne.